The Watch That Defies Definition: MB&F's HM12 'The Guardian' and the Future of Horology
When I first laid eyes on MB&F’s HM12 ‘The Guardian,’ I couldn’t help but think: this isn’t just a watch. It’s a statement—a rebellion against the very idea of what a watch should be. MB&F has always been the enfant terrible of the horological world, but with this piece, they’ve outdone themselves. What makes this particularly fascinating is how it blurs the lines between art, engineering, and nostalgia, all while hinting at a broader shift in the brand’s identity.
A Watch? A Robot? A Time Capsule?
Let’s start with the obvious: the HM12 is a mechanical duo, pairing a wristwatch with a 38cm-tall robot companion. But calling it a ‘watch’ feels reductive. Personally, I think it’s more of a time capsule—a fusion of Max Büsser’s 1970s sci-fi dreams and Max Maertens’ Transformer-inspired imagination. What many people don’t realize is that this isn’t just a design exercise; it’s a structural shift for MB&F. For the first time, Eric Giroud, the brand’s longtime designer, is absent. Instead, it’s a Max-and-Max show, signaling a gradual transition of creative leadership. This isn’t just a watch; it’s a passing of the torch.
Engineering as Storytelling
One thing that immediately stands out is the ‘face shield’ complication. It’s a trivial feature in terms of functionality—you can slide shields to reveal or conceal the watch’s ‘face.’ But what this really suggests is MB&F’s obsession with narrative. Over 200 components are dedicated to this mechanism alone, more than many entire watches. If you take a step back and think about it, this is engineering for the sake of storytelling, not utility. It’s a detail that I find especially interesting because it underscores how MB&F prioritizes emotion over efficiency.
The Ergonomics of the Absurd
The HM12’s case is a beast at 43.6mm, but here’s the kicker: it’s surprisingly wearable. The mobile lugs on the 12 o’clock side adapt to smaller wrists like mine, ensuring it doesn’t sit awkwardly. From my perspective, this is where MB&F’s genius lies—they’ve managed to make something absurdly complex feel almost… practical. It’s like they’re saying, ‘Yes, this is a robot-watch hybrid, but don’t worry, it won’t fall off your wrist.’
A Watch That Demands Attention
The HM12’s skull is mostly sapphire, allowing light to flood the tourbillon. It’s a watch that practically begs to be stared at, and that’s the point. In my opinion, MB&F isn’t just selling a timepiece; they’re selling a performance. The flying tourbillon, the jumping hours, the trailing minutes—it’s all theater. But what’s truly mind-boggling is that this caliber, with its 646 components and 84-hour power reserve, will only exist in 36 pieces. It’s a masterpiece with an expiration date.
The Guardian: More Than a Stand
The robot companion, ‘The Guardian,’ isn’t just a display piece. It’s a mechanical marvel in its own right, with 755 components, a thermometer ‘heart,’ and tools like a loupe and UV torch. What this really suggests is that MB&F is thinking beyond the wrist. They’re asking: What if a watch could be part of a larger ecosystem? It’s a question that raises a deeper question: Are we ready for watches that aren’t just watches?
The Price of Audacity
At CHF 280,000, the HM12 is a financial advisor’s nightmare. But here’s the thing: it’s not about the money. It’s about the audacity. MB&F could have played it safe, but they didn’t. They created something that will never make financial sense, and that’s exactly why it matters. In a world of safe, mass-produced luxury, the HM12 is a middle finger to convention.
The Future of MB&F
What this project really implies is that MB&F is entering a new era. With Maertens gradually taking the reins, we’re likely to see even more boundary-pushing creations. But there’s a bittersweet note here: the HM12 is both a culmination and a reset. It’s the end of one chapter and the beginning of another. Personally, I can’t wait to see what’s next, but I’ll also miss the Büsser-Giroud era that defined the brand’s first two decades.
Final Thoughts
The HM12 ‘The Guardian’ isn’t just a watch; it’s a manifesto. It’s MB&F saying, ‘We’re not here to play by the rules. We’re here to redefine them.’ And while it’s easy to get lost in the technical marvels or the astronomical price tag, the real story here is about creativity. In a world that often prioritizes profit over passion, MB&F reminds us that sometimes, the most important things are the ones that make no sense at all.
So, will the 36 pieces sell out? Probably. But the real shame isn’t that they won’t make more—it’s that there aren’t more brands willing to take this kind of risk. Because in the end, that’s what makes MB&F MB&F: they’re not just making watches; they’re making dreams. And in a world that often feels devoid of wonder, that’s something worth celebrating.
